Thanksgiving is not a traditional celebration for us, and I love it all the more because of that. As I write this, the turkey is in the oven, the homemade cranberry sauce and pumpkin pie are chilling in the fridge, and the NFL is on Sky Sports. It's the wrong day, but it is a typical, Allen Thanksgiving.
Matthew and I moved to the US just after we got married, and spent the first few Thanksgivings invited into the homes of dear, American friends. Those were lovely, but we felt like alien interlopers. Strange, British onlookers to a very American tradition. Many people would think of the Fourth of July as the classic American holiday, but, to me, Thanksgiving is more so. Of course, some of the over-simplified narratives of pilgrims and natives sharing the bounty of the land gloss over the colonisation, introduction of disease and genocide that underlie America's complicated history, and I am glad that those are being discussed and unpacked a bit more. But that is precisely why Thanksgiving is so emblematic of America to me, since it incorporates all of the best and the worst of its history in one glorious tradition of food-packed over-indulgence and togetherness.
After those first few Thanksgivings in other people's homes, Matthew and I had a few alone, not really celebrating, but just spending the day together like a Saturday without anywhere to go. I imagine that our experience of Thanksgiving in those years was a little like Christmas must feel in a christian country for non-christians - all those Santas and pine trees, but none of the meaning. It felt a little lonely to know that all around us, people were gathering with their nearest and dearest, eating turkey and pumpkin pie, and recharging all the old family tensions over who was making Granny's traditional stuffing, and who never pulled their weight when it came to the washing up.
At some point, after Sam was born, though, we decided that we should celebrate Thanksgiving for our American son. We had no family obligations or traditions, though, so we could pick and choose whatever menu items we wanted, and just spend the day at home, together in our own, little Allen family world. Slowly, but surely, especially once the boys started school, our favourites started to become traditions, although still without any sense of obligation. Matthew and I enthusiastically embraced the turkey and pecan pie, although we added roast potatoes, and skipped the candied yams. The boys started to request pumpkin pie as they got older, even though our British palates could never quite reconcile a vegetable in a dessert. The commentary for the Macy's Thanksgiving Day parade and Westminster Kennel Club Dog Show became the background noise while I cooked, and the endless NFL football games on TV provided the backdrop to the post-prandial tryptophan coma. Over the years we even started to invite British relatives over for Thanksgiving, or became hosts to other non-American outsiders who had nowhere else to go.
I don't think that it was until we moved back to the UK, though, that we really started to treasure and actively embrace our Allen family Thanksgiving traditions. Being back in England meant that celebrating Thanksgiving required more effort and planning, and took on a kind of sentimental attachment. The logistics and timings were more difficult - it really isn't practical to cook and eat a huge Thanksgiving meal on a workday, and sourcing some of the ingredients were more challenging. Just like when we lived in the US and had to import mincemeat and Christmas puddings, and make our own British Christmas treats, I now had to source tinned pumpkin and French's Fried Onions to make our favourite Thanksgiving recipes. Whereas I used to just order store-made pies, I learned to make a decent homemade pumpkin and pecan pie... even if they aren't as pretty! And we have continued to welcome people into our celebration - American friends who are feeling homesick for their family traditions, and our British family and friends who are new to it all. When I looked back through my photos to find a picture of previous gatherings, I realised that I did not have any because I am usually too busy cooking.
This year, the challenge has been further complicated by COVID, and, of course, we cannot welcome others into our home. Even Sam, who is only 8 miles away, in his college house at Girton, cannot come home this weekend, due to the national lockdown. So I asked the boys what they wanted to do. Did they want to wait until Sam does come home next week, at the end of term? Or, celebrate without him? Or, just skip Thanksgiving this year? I wasn't surprised that the latter was not seriously considered as an option, but I was a little surprised that Jack insisted that Sam had to be part of our celebrations.
"It's not Thanksgiving without Sam," he said. "Even you and Dad are not as important as having him here, since you are not American. Sam and I are American, and so I want to celebrate Thanksgiving with him."
A little taken aback by Jack's willingness to throw the cook under the bus, I was also touched that he felt this bond with his brother. So, we are implementing a new tactic this year, which, hopefully, won't become a tradition...! Instead of Sam coming home for Thanksgiving dinner, we are taking dinner to him. I have started all my timings earlier than usual, to allow time to pack up a plate of food, and half a pumpkin pie, which Matthew will then deliver to Sam's door. Once Matthew is back home again, we will set up the laptop at the Allen Thanksgiving table, and FaceTime Sam into the family gathering. It's not perfect, and may even be a bit silly, but it's an Allen thing.
One of the things that I have come to realise about Thanksgiving is that having rituals and traditions are important to really honour the gratitude fully. Of course, if you asked me, I would feel grateful for my family and friends, and all the abundance of food and drink we are lucky to have every day of the year. But it is through making the effort to create a ritual of the meal and the togetherness that the gratitude becomes more meaningful. And that is even more important this year. So, as I head off to check on the turkey, I would like to say Happy Thanksgiving, to all our family, friends, colleagues and aquaintances, whether near or far, American or not. I am grateful for you all.